possible.
We have really enjoyed learning about and experiencing Berber culture. At Fez, we were included in stage performances and
we had to dance with Berber women, dress up as bride and groom and demonstrate the wedding customs. I had to sit cross
legged and be lifted up in a padded container. The first girl was a Russian who weighed a lot less than me. When they
indicated it was my turn, I tried saying, "Too heavy!" but they wouldn't take no for an answer. At the end of the dance
two men helped the Berber women to lower me down. I came down with a sudden drop. Alan looked really good as a Moroccan
I was also asked to be the magician's assistant. He could produce a white dove from his hands. He could also pour water
into a folded up newspaper. He unfolded it to show it was dry, folded it again and poured the water into a glass then
drank it.
The trick he did with me wasn't that good. I think I gave the wrong answer when he asked what my favourite animal was. I
said a dog. He asked which colour. I said black and white. He produced a black and white scarf from his hand and the
violin player produced a meow sound. He then asked me to stuff the scarf a little bit down my jacket and he pulled out
the scarf and a bra. Ha ha!!
The landscape is amazing. The desert is harsh with black stones and dry red soil. The Atlas mountains rise up in the
background covered in snow that fell two weeks ago. After leaving Fez we travelled south to Medlet. Our evening walk
incuded a spectacular gorge and a Berber village made from mud and stones. Our guide talked to a sheppard who was looking
after some sheep. He had a few teeth left and brown eyes that were cloudy with cataracts. He had a great zest for life
and a happy smile. He explained that he can sleep each night in the village while herding his sheep on the surrounding
desert grasses. However his two brothers must cross the Atlas mountains before winter snow blocks the passes and they
must travel far to provide enough feed for their larger herds of sheep. Some Berber people still live the traditional
nomadic life.
In the village I took a video of a small donkey covered in fire wood and bushes. He made a very loud braying noise which
we enjoyed hearing many times when we travelled the country side. I also saw a donkey being used by a girl for carrying
an empty gas bottle and exchanging it for a full one.
We rode horses in a cedar forrest with golden monkeys. The saddles and bridles were beauifully decorated. It was fun!
The next evening we climbed aboard a train of camels and headed off to sleep in a traditional Berber camel wool tent in
the Sahara desert. We enjoyed the silence...... except for Alan's camel who burbed and grumbled.
At night we ate a Tajine feast and enjoyed the company of three Berber men by the camp fire. They sang, played castanets,
guitar and drums. We all told ridiculus riddles and laughed at our sillyness.
Alan and I slept on a thick blanket and covered ourselves with four more thick blankets. I kept all my clothes on which
include four jumpers, ski coat, gloves and beenie. My feet were still cold.
In the dark I heard Samir clapping his hands telling us to wake up. We climbed onto our camels and took off across the
dunes to find a good place to see the dawn. It was a very special moment.
That night we entered a spectacular gorge with red walls and a river that sprang to life from a hole it the rock. Our
hotel was at the base of the rock wall and we ate dinner in a room that looked like a camping tent described in Harry
Potter.
We walked the next morning along 1000foot cliffs. It is called Todra Gorge.
Samir took us for a walk off the track amongst the vegetable plots in an oasis. There were autumn trees, palms and olive
trees. Women washed clothes in the river and boys climbed the olive trees harvesting the olives. An old man rode a donkey
along the narrow pathway. Morocco is so magical when you are off the beaten track.
We visited Ait Benhaddou, a famous medieval mud-brick town that rises up a steep hill with a bank at the top. The bank is
just ruins now. In the sixteenth century it was an important destination for money exchange. It was fortified with a
surrounding wall and a look out for robbers. We sat and watched the sunset.
We travelled up a steep road that ziz-zagged up high Atlas mountains towards Tizi-'n-Tichka (2260m), the high pass. We
enjoyed sitting on a terrace overlooking the valley with a cup of hot mint tea. A mule was ploughing a small terraced
field with a wooden plough and a man walked behind while a woman threw handfuls of seed. Everyday there is a brilliant
blue sky and here it looks particularly good with patches of snow.
In Marrakesh we went for a tour of a palace and the market place. It was good to be with a guide who told a lot about the
history. In the market we followed him and in the square he said goodbye. We were left as a group to find our own way
about. We suddenly felt vulnerable. We found a nice place for lunch away from the main tourist square and later headed
back to see what we could. Paul found himself roped around the neck by a snake. He is from England and he had heard our
stories about snakes and spiders in Australia, and he decided then and there to be daring. A poisonous cobra was put
close to his face. Katie took pictures. Then the haggling began for a fee. These snake handlers were aggressive! Alan,
Greg and I pretended we weren't involved or interested.
That night we celebrated Alan's birthday. We went to a great restaurant (there are so many!) and had a feast. Alan and I
were surprised with a delicious chocolate cake. All the lights went out in the restaurant and the birthday song was
played in Arabic. The candle was lit and Alan made a wish as he blew it out. Samir was so kind to organise this surprise
for us!
We said goodbye to Paul and headed off to Essaouira with Greg. There we found a lovely seaside town, more beautiful
weather and a slower pace of life compared to Marrakesh. The streets are paved and meant for pedestians. The people make
wooden articles and paint pictures to sell. The fishermen use small blue boats or bigger trawlers to catch loads of fish.
The cats are fat and sit in the sun. We saw one cat sit comfortably with a sardine in front of him and he just watched
it.
Shopping here was fun. We had plenty of time and we bought quite a few things.
The food here is great. We just had once incident at a restaurant run by a German women. Jessica ordered mussels. She
couldn't eat them because of the strong stench. Katie smelt them and agreed. I smelt them and the stink lingered in my
nostrils. We sent them back and asked to reorder. The waiter misinterpreted and came up the stairs with oysters. Alan met
him halfway and explained that Jessica would like to order the calamarri. Soon the irrate German women told Jessica the
mussels were fine for her to eat. She had eaten some and would eat all of them if we refused them. Jessica did her best
to explain that they smelt and she couldn't attempt them. The woman continued. I stated Jessica was not going to eat them
because Australians have a different stomach and she would end up with vommitting and diarrhea. The woman finally
listened to Alan who said it was a misunderstanding with the waiter and we had not refused the oysters. Finally Jessica
enjoyed her calamari rings. On a positive note the musician was awesome and we enjoyed the night.
Now we are back at Marrakesh having a rest day. We are very relaxed and happy. Our next adventure starts tomorrow when we
